Amritsar and the Golden Temple

The state of Punjab is located in the northwest of India, at the border to Pakistan. Home to the Indian music and cuisine perhaps best known by Americans, Punjab is the center of the Sikh religion. While the country of India is 80 percent Hindu, the state of Punjab is 60 percent Sikh. The holiest shrine for Sikhs is The Golden Temple, located in Amritsar. Many believe this temple rivals the Taj Mahal. There's no question that it is equally elegant, and the spirituality here is like nowhere else.

Sonu is Sikh, so I told him I wanted to do everything he did in visiting the temple. We set early alarms and visited at 4 a.m. for one of two daily ceremonies involving the Sikh holy book. First we donned headscarves, then stowed our shoes. From the first steps I noticed the calming feel of the well-worn but pristine marble underfoot. The sacred temple, glowing with light, soon appeared before us, casting reflections in the "Pool of Nectar" that surrounds it. Next step was to strip to our underwear and bathe in its waters. I did say I wanted to do it all! After this we watched the decorating and then the procession of a gold-gilted litter used to carry the holy book to from its overnight storage to the temple. We followed, and at intervals joined hundreds of other people kneeling to touch their foreheads to thresholds and floors, each paying personal homage to the book once it reached its place of honor.

The Sikhs believe in equality of all people, regardless of caste or creed, so everyone is welcome. And a community kitchen serves food for all at no charge, totaling as many as 40,000 meals a day. We had tea and bread served in metal bowls. There were always two visits in my plan; I knew that one wouldn't be enough for me. So we returned in the evening to see the temple again toward dusk, with soft light cast on its gold plating, white marble and floral inlays of precious stone. We had an evening meal of dal and roti, again from the community kitchen. And we stayed until dark, when the temple was illuminated once again.

First with the Hindus and their Ganges, and now the Sikhs and their holy book and temple, it is so very moving to see the devotion of these people to their faith. I'm the lone foreign tourist most of the time -- and a bit of a curiosity -- and yet I feel so very welcome and at home. These are people of wonderful spirit, heart and grace. And this day was one of my richest travel experiences ever!